The Best Destination for Island Hopping: Philippines
To this day, the Philippines remains one of my favorite backpacking trips. I visited in late 2019 for Christmas and New Year’s, squeezing in a lifetime of memories right before the world shut down. Years later, whenever someone asks for a travel recommendation to Southeast Asia, the Philippines is still the first word out of my mouth.
The Itinerary at a Glance
We spent nearly three weeks traversing the archipelago. Here is the high-level breakdown of our route:
Dec 19-20: Cebu City
Dec 20-21: Moalboal, Cebu for canyoneering
Dec 22-23: Oslob, Cebu for swimming with whale sharks
Dec 23-25: Siargao for surfing and eating whole-roasted pig for Christmas dinner and karaoke with our new hostel family
Dec 26-28: Boracay for white sand beaches & nightlife
Dec 29-Jan 1: Coron, Palawan for New Years Eve street parties with the locals and boat tours
Jan 1-Jan 4: El Nido, Palawan for hidden lagoons and more boat tours
Logistics: Getting There & Getting Around
We flew from New York to Cebu (via Shanghai), making the conscious choice to skip Manila entirely.
Tip: Our Filipino friends suggested skipping Manila if you’re short on time. Unless you’re looking for big-city chaos and intense nightlife, flying directly into Cebu allows you to immerse yourself in island life immediately.
The Hostel Life
For most of this trip, we stayed in hostels. This was the best decision we made for the type of trip we were looking to have. We met people from every corner of the globe, many of whom we are still in touch with today.
The only time we opted for a hotel was in Coron, and honestly? It was our least favorite stay. It felt isolating. If you want the true Philippines backpacking experience, stay in hostels. The community aspect is what makes island hopping there so special.
Note: Because the archipelago is often in the path of powerful typhoons, the landscape - and the local businesses - can change overnight. While some of the hostels and gems I mention in this post may or may not have faced damage or closure since my visit, the spirit of the people remains unshakable. I recommend always checking the current status of local spots before you arrive.
Island #1: Cebu
Cebu was our introduction to the Philippines, and it set a high bar for adrenaline. We started in Moalboal, a charming, laid-back town that serves as the perfect jumping-off point for Kawasan Falls. We then set out for Oslob, about two hours south of Moalboal.
The Vibe: Mix of city life and nature. As our first stop, it was less about lounging and more about getting straight into the action
Must Do:
Canyoneering in Moalboal: Spend the day cliff-jumping, sliding down natural rock waterslides, and swimming through crystal clear water. It’s a physical challenge, but the views are rewarding.
Swim with whale sharks in Oslob: This is the primary spot for swimming with whale sharks. I’ll be honest: it was intimidating at first. Seeing a creature that massive heading toward you is a primal experience. However, these "gentle giants" are incredibly calm.
Stay: Moalboal Shaka Traveler's Place (Note: This location is unfortunately permanently closed).
Canyoneering in Moalboal
Swimming with whale sharks in Oslob
Island #2: Siargao
We arrived in Siargao just in time for Christmas, and I couldn’t imagine a better place to spend the holidays. Siargao has a 'cool' factor that is hard to describe - it’s the surfing capital of the Philippines, and the vibe is incredibly laid-back, rustic, and eco-conscious. We were lucky enough to meet a few people at our hostel, White Banana Beach Club, who were invited to a Christmas dinner and party at Dawn Patrol Hostel. I’m so happy we were able to join; they hosted a truly festive evening with a traditional whole-roasted pig (Lechon), a spread of Filipino dishes, karaoke, and games that made us feel right at home. For additional island hopping from Siargao, it was highly recommended by locals to visit Naked, Daku & Guyam Islands, however unfortunately we missed it due to a typhoon. Still, it’s something I’d prioritize on a return trip.
The Vibe: Think coconut palm forests, motorbike rides, and smoothie bowls.
Must Do: Even if you aren't a pro surfer, take a lesson at Cloud 9. The boardwalk there is also the best spot to catch the sunset.
Stay: White Banana Beach Club (Note: This location is also unfortunately permanently closed, but I’d highly recommend checking out Haole Surf Hostel Siargao. While it wasn't open yet during my visit, I spent Christmas with the owner and can vouch for the incredible heart behind it. After facing significant typhoon damage, they’ve come back better than ever and are a perfect example of Siargao's resilience.)
White Banana Beach Club (permanently closed)
Surfing lessons at Cloud 9
Christmas Dinner at Dawn Patrol Hostel
Island #3: Boracay
If I could redo this trip, I would completely skip Boracay and spend more time in Siargao or Palawan.
Boracay has stunning beaches - some of the best-rated in the world - but the overall vibe wasn’t for me. It’s extremely crowded and heavily touristed.
During our visit, Boracay was hit with a typhoon days before our arrival. The island had no power, which made navigating our time there and cooling down from the heat very challenging.
The Vibe: Stunning beaches but heavily commercialized. Expect a big party atmosphere if you stay in the main tourist hubs.
Must Do: Catch all sunsets
Stay: Mad Monkey Boracay
Island #4: Palawan
Palawan is what dreams are made of. If there’s one place in the Philippines that completely lives up to the hype, it’s here. Between Coron and El Nido, El Nido completely won my heart. In my opinion, El Nido had the best nightlife of the entire trip. You can walk along the main strip and hop from bar to bar - most of them beachfront. It felt much less commercialized than Boracay.
The Vibe: Saved the best for last rings true. Palawan was our favorite mix of nature and party with the right kind of people.
Must Do: Boat Tours! In Coron, we did Tour A and Tour B. In El Nido, we did Tour A and Tour Z.
Tip: Tour Z (highly recommend). It’s not heavily advertised, but it’s worth seeking out. The boat is bigger, includes free drinks, paddle boards, and a sandbar volleyball stop. It switches things up from the more common boat tours.
Stay: Frendz Hostel El Nido
Why the Philippines Wins for Island Hopping
The magic of the Philippines isn't just that the islands are beautiful - it’s that they are all so different. You can go from canyoneering in Cebu to surfing in Siargao, then party on the white sands of Boracay before ending in the hidden lagoons of Palawan.
Five years later, I am still chasing the feeling of that 2019 trip!